In Zoucheng, our lovely guide took us to visit 3 families who were producing zha-ran, or stitch-resist tie-dye. Her English was minimal, so I wasn’t able to ask much about the process. However, I share my photos and observations for those of you who have an interest in the process.

Wet processes and drying racks were scattered around household courtyards, with large indigo-stained vats much in evidence.

Patterns to be stitched and bound were stencilled onto the white fabric:

Plastic stencils:

Cloth with patterns stencilled onto it:

Stitching, gathering and binding the designs. The gathered and bound areas will resist the dye and so remain white after dyeing.

Design stitched and gathered tightly:

Probably the bound cotton was being mordanted:

Leaves of the indigo plant are fermented to create the dye.

Dye pot:

Basket is perhaps used to aerate the indigo vat:

Some kind of boiler or warmer:

The bound fabric after dyeing in indigo:

Unpicking the binding threads to reveal the areas reserved white:

Unbound cloth:

A final wash?

I’m guessing this is for spinning out excess water?

Proudly displaying her family’s finished product:

One household was producing yardage, and measuring & folding it in the courtyard:

Yardage ready for market:

Some pieces, such as table cloths, had machine-stitched couched outlines added in white to accentuate parts of the design:
See more completed pieces at Zhoucheng: Zha-ran Tie-dye